The Floating Town of Tai O

On the northwest edge of Lantau Island, one of Hong Kong’s islands most commonly known as the location of the Hong Kong Airport, Tai O is a historic fishing village that feels like a place that time has forgotten. Of course, that ambiance and authenticity are valuable these days, so weekend houses for rich Hong Kongers treating it as a novel escape are now snapping up the local options.

But for the moment, let’s talk about the town’s charm. Primarily focusing on dried fish, the village has markets selling all varieties, assorted coffee shops, tourist spots, and a wonderful car-less maze of narrow pathways. Many of the paths and houses are not on the ground but built over the waterways. The town is split in half by its river, which is unbridged – locals cross to the other side in motorboats. While these two-stroke engines dump oil in the waterways and create considerable air pollution, local opposition to building bridges comes from the fear of the ensuing gentrification and possible skyrocketing property values as the east bank is accessible as a weekend residence.